Copyright © Hans Högman 2020-07-23
Uniforms of the Swedish Army -
1700s
Introduction
The blue Carolean standard uniform introduced in
1687 was the prevailing uniform of the Swedish
Army until the 1770s. There were several
modifications and adjustments made to the
uniform in the 1700s, but it took until 1779 before a
new uniform was introduced, uniform m/1779.
1700 - 1720s
The Carolean uniform of the 1670s was the
foundation of the new blue Carolean standard
uniform introduced in 1687. The uniform was
modified in 1706 (The Late Carolean Uniform). Even
if modifications also were made later to the
uniform in the 1700s it was pretty much the same
uniform as the uniform used by the army during
the Great Northern War (1700 – 1721).
Since the Carolean uniform was first introduced in
the 1600s it is accounted for in the chapter about
the uniforms of the 1600s.
See the Carolean standard uniform.
Infantry 1720s - 1770
In other words, the infantry continued to wear the
blue standard uniform from the Great Northern
War (1700 - 1721). However, some regiments used
deviant colors of linings, collars, cuffs and
stockings. The standard color for these details was
yellow. However, Jönköping and Värmland
regiments wore red color of these details and
Västerbotten regiment white color.
The karpus was now abolished as headgear in favor
of the three-cornered hat, the tricorne.
The resources were after the Great Northern
depleted and it took several years before worn-out
uniforms could be replaced. According to
regulations, new uniforms were to be made of
Swedish broadcloth.
The hair pouch (Swe: hårpung) was abolished in
the infantry in 1724.
Chest stripes or facings was introduced on the
uniforms in this period. The officers of the Life
Guards were wearing facings from 1728 and from
the mid-1700s, also the soldiers.
The tails of the long-coat had previously been
temporally tucked-up during march and riding.
Now the tails become permanently fasted in the
tucked-up position.
The officers’ uniform was basically the same
uniform as the soldiers’ uniform but made of better
quality. The officers’ long-coat was blue as the
soldiers’ but had also blue linings, cuffs, collars and
stockings. So, the uniforms of the officers were fully
blue.
The Västerbotten regiment was in 1748 assigned
the standard colors of their uniforms. Previously
their coats were blue with white details. Now these
details became yellow like the the majority of the
regiments.
In 1753 the red details of the Jönköping and
Värmland regiments was reduced to only collars,
cuffs and linings. Trousers and waistcoats now
received the standard yellow color.
According to the Uniform Regulation of 1756 the
uniforms was to be made as follows:
Uniform m/1756
Long-coat and cloak were to be made of blue
Swedish broadcloth. Collars of coat and cloak was
to be made of yellow broadcloth. The lining was to
be yellow smooth serge. The cloak was to be
equipped with two smaller brass buckles. The cloak
was, like earlier, circular and made in three
different sizes. The long-coat was equipped with 19
large tin buttons, of which 10 were in front down to
the waistline. The remaining buttons were on
pocket flaps, on either side of the coat and one on
the left shoulder to keep the bandoleer to the
cartridge pouch in place.
The vest (waistcoat) was provided with sleeves and
made of yellow Swedish broadcloth. Also the knee-
short trousers (breeches) was made of yellow
broadcloth and had a square opening with a lid in
front, an attached fall-front, (flies didn’t exist at the
time).
The headgear was the three-cornered hat, tricorne,
and was equipped with a tin button and had at the
time a high brim. The scarf was black and made of
wool crepon. Crepon is a thin fabric made from silk
or fine wool.
The image to the right
shows infantry uniform
m/1756, Södermanland
regiment. On the right-
hand side is a cloak. The
dummy has a pigtail. Army
Museum.
Footwear was shoes with a
brass buckle. The stockings
were white and made of
wool.
The hair was to be plied up in a queue (Swe:
stångpiska), also known as pigtail.
The 1756 regulation was foremost an
establishment and clarification of the already
existing conditions of the clothing.
In the 1760s there was an increasing criticism of the
homogeneous colors of the army uniform. The
homogeneous colors made it difficult for the
generals to manage the different regiments in
battle since the homogeneous colors made if
imposable to identify single regiments of the
Swedish army.
Photos of the army uniform according to the
1756 regulation:
Uniforms of the Swedish
Army - 1700s
Finally, in 1762 a new regulation stated that the colors
of the different regiments’ uniforms were to be
differentiated. This regulation included both the
allotted regiments as well as the enlisted ones.
For each regiment 6 sample uniforms were produced.
These sample uniforms were to be used as a model
for the manufacturing of respective regiment’s
uniforms.
This new army uniform was assigned the model name
m/1765.
Uniform m/1765
The long-coat remained pretty much unchanged. The
tails were more flared which meant that only the
buttons on the upper part of the coat could be done.
The buttonholes on the lower part of the coat simply
became a decoration. The coat was shorter and now
ended above the knees.
The Södermanland, Västmanland and Uppland
regiments’ coats were also equipped with yellow
facing and the Västerbotten regiment white ones. The
facing was sewn onto the coat. Also the vest was
shortened and now sleeveless and had facings.
The trousers were made of broadcloth and of the
same type as earlier, i.e. breeches. The stockings were
unchanged and kept up with knee straps. The officers
on the other hand wore no longer stockings but black
knee-high gaiters (Swe: stiblett) with 12 - 14 buttons.
The earlier shoes had been broken right off in front,
i.e. square toecaps. Now the toecaps got a rounder
shape. However, still each shoe could be worn on
either foot. The headgear, the three-cornered hat,
was slightly modified. It had now a lower crown and
was equipped with a button on the left-side of the
brim.
The hair was still piled up with a queue at the back of
the head. The uniforms were also equipped with a
ruff and the cuffs had ruffles.
The uniforms of the regimental bands were decorated
with chevrons on sleeves and pocket flaps.
Colors of the Swedish infantry uniforms, m/1765:
Only one regiment, Jönköping Regiment, had a coat in
a different color, light blue, while the other regiments’
color of the coats was medium blue. Yellow was the
dominating color of the other details. Most regiments
had traditional collars on their coats while three
regiments wore coats with a low standing collar.
The new m/1765 uniform was gradually introduced as
the old uniforms were worn out.
Cavalry
The cavalry also continued wearing the blue standard
uniform from the Great Northern War (1700 - 1721).
The Bohuslän Dragoon Regiment wore a uniform
with different colors compared to the other mounted
regiments; green coat with yellow vest, cuffs and
lining. A few other regiments wore uniforms with
divergent colors of these details: Östgöta Cavalry
Regiment had red vest, collar, cuffs and lining instead
of yellow. Corresponding details in South Skåne
Cavalry Regiment and Jämtland Regiment was blue
and the Life Regiment white. In the 1720s the Life
Regiment changed their white color for blue.
Hussar units were introduced in the Swedish Calvary
after the Russian war 1741 - 1742. Deserters from
Russian hussar units became the first horsemen in
the first Swedish hussar unit. The early Swedish
hussar uniform was therefore influenced by the
Russian hussar uniform; Dolman jackets and the
high traditional high hussar cap. Hussars was a type
of light cavalry.
This Swedish hussar unit was disbanded as early as
1744.
In 1746 the red color of the Östgöta Cavalry Regiment
coat linings were changed to blue.
Colors of the Swedish cavalry uniforms, mid-
1700s:
Bohuslän Dragoon Regiment was the only regiment
with a different color of the coat, green.
Chamois is a color with a shade of yellow.
Not only the infantry received a new regulation 1756
regarding uniforms but also the cavalry. The cavalry
regulation was similar to the infantry’s. The cavalry
long-coat and cloak had about the same cut as the
infantry, but the number of buttons were less. Unlike
the infantry, the cavalry regiments already used
different colors of the coat linings. The coat had 12
brass buttons in front down to the waistline and one
on each shoulder. The vest had sleeves and made of
broadcloth in the regimental color and had a simple
collar and small blue cuffs.
The trousers was made of buck skin or reindeer skin.
The hat was the traditional three-cornered hat,
tricorne. The cavalrymen also wore a type of gloves
known as gauntlets. The cavalrymen also used a black
scarf plus two white scarves. They had two types of
long stockings; one pair of wool in the regimental
color and one pair of unbleached linen. The linen
stockings were worn on top of the wool stockings as
a protective garment when wearing their high boots.
The cavalrymen had high boots without bootlegs
(Swe: stövelkrage). They also had similar shoes as the
soldiers in the infantry. The cavalry still wore at this
time breastplates with shammy linings.
The Hussar Uniform of 1761
Hussar units were reintroduced in the Swedish
cavalry during the Pomeranian War 1757 - 1762. The
need of light cavalry units was big. The Royal Swedish
Hussar Regiment was established in 1758. The
regiment was divided into two new units in 1761; The
Yellow or Wrangel Hussar Regiment and the Blue or
Putbusk Regiment. As early as in 1766 the two hussar
units were consolidated again by the name Royal
Swedish Hussar Regiment, generally known as the
Mörner Hussar Regiment after its regimental
commander.
The regiment received a new uniform in 1761 of the
typical hussar look including the dolman (dolman
jacket). The dolman was made of black broadcloth
with yellow cuffs, tin buttons and white braids.
The close fitting, short-cut coat was heavily braided. It
was usually worn under a pelisse, a similar coat but
with fur trimming, usually worn slung over the left
shoulder with the sleeves hanging loose. The Swedish
hussar coat of 1761 had a chamois color (shade of
yellow) with a white fur trimming. The trousers were
made of yellow buck skin. The high boots were
equipped with spurs. The headgear was a tolpak; a
black bearskin cap decorated with skull and
crossbones made of silver plated sheet metal.
Artillery
The Artillery long-coat was blue with collar, cuffs,
lining etc. in the same color.
1770s
The 1770s is the beginning of a new trend among the
European armies towards simpler uniforms more
adopted to battle conditions. The three-cornered hat
(tricorne) is now being replaced with a new model
which had the brim in-front turned up. Later, also the
brim at the back was turned up and the entire hat
was flattened. Thereby the hat only got two sides and
the two-cornered hat was born, the bicorne.
The Swedish Army was still using the tricorne at this
time, uniform m/1765.
Infantry / Artillery 1770s - Uniform m/1779
A new uniform was introduced in 1779, the m/1779,
introduced in the infantry and artillery. Now the
uniforms of the Swedish army moved away from the
type of uniform represented by the Carolean
uniform. The m/1779 uniform was very different from
the earlier Carolean uniforms.
The coat was short with long tails and had a low
collar. It was blue with piping (Swe: passpoal) along
the coat’s seams and on the shoulder straps.
The Life Guards, Uppland Regiment, Södermanland
Regiment and Västmanland Regiment was using
yellow piping and the Hälsinge Regiment white.
The uniform was equipped with a so-called kollett.
The kollett was a type of jacket shorter than the coat,
had a standing collar but no tails. The kollett was
used in summertime and during drill exercises.
The image to the left shows a
kollett m/1779 made of yellow
broadcloth and blue collar and
cuffs. This kollett was a one for
soldiers of rank and file used by
the Södermanland Regiment. Army
museum.
The trousers were yellow, tight
and ended at the knees (breeches).
The soldiers weren’t wearing the former
wool long stockings at this time bur
charivader, a garment reminding of the of
long stockings and reached far up onto the
thighs onto of the trousers. I’m not aware of
the appropriate term in English for
charivader but they are a kind of leggings.
The image to the right shows a charivad
m/1779 just by the Sögdermanland
Regiment. Army Museum.
The footwear was now an ankle-high boot
with a pointed toecap instead of the former shoes.
However, still each boot could be worn on either foot.
These boots are also known as Hungarian boots.
The tricorne was now changed for a circular hat. The
Artillery used a hat with a higher crown than the
infantry. The brim was turned up on the hats’ left side
where a yellow plume was attached to the hat.
The cloak was still of the sleeveless Carolean type
Other details of the uniform were scarf, ruff, ruffles
and for the hair; pigtail.
Officers and NCOs
The coat worn by officers and NCOs was equipped
with projecting shoulder straps. The coat of the
officers was supplied with different buttons
depending on regiment. The Artillery buttons had an
engraved grenade. The officers also wore a light blue
sash around their waist.
The hat was equipped with a ribbon which had a gold
color on the officers’ hats. In some regiments the
officers’ ribbons had a shade of silver.
The NCO uniforms looked pretty much like the
officers’, but the officers’ uniform was made of better
fabrics. The NCO hats were decorated with braids
and plumes made of feathers while the soldiers’ hats
had plumes made of camel and wool yarn. The
soldier’s coat facing were white while
the officers’ and NCS’ were yellow.
Officers and NCOs were also equipped
with a surtout (Swe: syrtut) with two
rows of buttons. A surtout is a long
greatcoat with lapels and equipped with
one or two rows of buttons worn over
the uniforms used in the 1700s and
1800s.
The image to the right shows a surtout
from the 1780s. Army Museum.
The uniform m/1779 was gradually
introduced in the different regiments. The
Södermanland regiment was equipped with the
m/1779 between 1780 and 1782.
In 1783 a transition began of changing the cloaks for
greatcoats. In the 1780s the tails of the coats were
shortened.
Cavalry 1770s
The Cavalry had during the 1770s been wearing the
cavalry uniform of 1756, m/1756. They were not
included in the new regulation of 1765. In 1774 it was
ruled that the cavalry was to continue using uniform
m/1756. This included the cloak, coat, trousers, hat
etc. However, a new vest and trousers was to be
manufactured.
Uniform m/1777
In 1777 there was a new regulation regarding the
cavalry uniforms. The hat was to be smooth without
braids and equipped with a button on the brim and a
banner of a straw. In 1779 it was ruled that the
cavalry was to use the same type of hats as the
infantry.
Uniform m/1781
In 1781 a new regulation for the cavalry was
accepted. The cavalry breeches were to be made of
buckskin and to reach down below the knees, where
they were fastened by a pair of straps. The dragoon
trousers were made longer; they reached down to
the ankles.
The cavalry horsemen were wearing leather top-
boots with stiff cuffs. The dragoons were wearing
knee-high boots and eschavader (a leg garment)
over the skin trousers.
Only one regiment, the Mounted Life Regiment, kept
the buff coats and breastplates. The cavalry hats
were similar to the infantry hats but not identical. The
cloak was kept as before.
The uniforms of the Swedish Army introduced in this
period was used for the first time in battle in the
Swedish-Russian War 1788 - 1790. The war proved
that the uniforms weren’t fulfilling standards under
battle conditions. The uniform was therefore
submitted to some changes after the war.
1790s
A new type of garment was introduced during the
French Revolution 1789 - 1799; the long trousers.
This was a garment only used by seamen and
workers previously. Long trousers were soon used by
the French revolution army. At this time a new type of
coat was introduced, a coat with long tails and a high
large collar, double lapels and two rows of buttons.
The headgear was a high cylindrical felt hat.
It took a while before this new fashion reached
Sweden. Not until the end of the 1790s was the new
coat and hat introduced here. However, the long
trousers became a fashion earlier. Swedish military
uniforms followed about the same timeline.
The first military long trousers in Sweden was
introduced in 1789 but not until the first decade of
the 1800s was the entire infantry equipped with long
trousers.
Infantry 1790s - uniform m/1792-1793
According to a regulation from the early 1790s a new
uniform for the infantry was to be made in
accordance with the uniform worn by the Svea Life
Guards. The regulation especially emphasizes the
length and cutting of the jacket, vest, trousers and
the high gaiters. The facing of the coat was to be
open, i.e. have visible button and buttonholes. The
coat was made longer and the former charivader was
replaced by high gaiters and the former ankle-high
boots by shoes. Previously only officers wore sashes,
now also soldiers of rank and file were equipped with
blue and yellow sashes. The earlier high cylindrical
hats were kept. the officers and NCOs were supplied
with a gold or silver ribbon and a yellow plume
fastened by a braid. This hat is known as the “Swedish
hat” in other countries.
The uniform m/1792-1793 was equipped with the
then new epaulettes (Swe: epålett) on the officers’
coats. Epaulette (also spelled epaulet) is a type of
ornamental shoulder piece or decoration used as
insignia of rank by armed forces and other
organizations. At this time formal rank insignias were
introduced (as we see them today). The former
gorgets were abolished in 1792 as a badge of rank.
Instead rank insignias were introduced in Sweden in
accordance with the French way of using rank
insignias. The new rank insignias were worn on the
shoulders, i.e. epaulettes. The epaulettes were
different for different ranks. In 1795 royal crowns was
added to the epaulettes as an insignia for generals
and stars as insignias for colonels and other lower
officers.
In 1793 a second uniform was added to the ordinary
uniform called “släpmundering” (Undress uniform).
The ordinary uniform was referred to as the
“livmundering” (Dress uniform). The “släpmundering”
(Undress uniform) was a working dress (clothes) and
looked like the ordinary uniform but made of gray or
white wadmal. Wadmal is a coarse, dense, usually
undyed wool fabric. The hat for the släpmundering
was lacking the plume.
In 1794 another new garment was introduced, the
military dress suite to be worn by off-duty officers.
The tailcoat was dark blue equipped with cuffs, collar
and lining. The lining was to be in the regimental
color.
Also, a new hat for the infantry was being developed
in 1799, m/1799. The crown was cylindrical and 18
cm (7 inches) high.
Soldier,
Södermanland
regiment, uniform
m/1792-1793 with
hat m/1799
Artillery 1790s - uniform m/1794
The artillery uniform m/1794 had a dark-blue coat
with tucked-up tails, large pocket flaps and a high
double folded blue collar and blue cuffs. The trousers
were dark-blue, tight and made of broadcloth. The
footwear was a type of black boots but also black
shoes. The hat was a black felt hat which left brim
was extended and fastened to the crown and
equipped with a red and white cockade and a yellow
plume. At the bottom of the crown was a ribbon of
brass-sheet (Swe: kardong). The artillery hat was
similar to the infantry hat.
There was also a black scarf and a sash of dark-blue
and yellow broadcloth. The sleeveless cloak was dark-
blue with two brass buckles.
The artillery was reorganized in 1794. Previously the
artillery had been one large regiment with many
detachments. This artillery regiment was now divided
into four independent artillery regiments. These new
regiments as to wear different colors on their coat
collars.
Svea Artillery Regiment was to wear the earlier blue
collar, while the Göta Artillery Regiment’s collars was
yellow, Wendes Artillery Regiment white color and the
Finnish Artillery Regiment red color.
In 1794 a new uniform was introduced for the in 1792
newly established Mounted Artillery Brigade. There
uniform consisted of a coat, vest, high gaiters,
buckskin trousers, riding breeches of broadcloth and
calfskin, hat with a a ribbon of brass-sheet, cloak of
dark-blue broadcloth, cavalry top-boots and a scarf.
Cavalry 1790s - uniform m/1793
The cavalry uniform was submitted to some changes
in 1793. The 1793 regulation stated that the cavalry
was to wear the three-cornered hat, tricorne, instead
of the circular hat worn by the infantry. It was more
practical to wear a tricorne than the circular hat for
the cavalrymen. These hats were modified tricornes
which made them bicornes. So,
this hat was not the former
Carolean tricorne.
The image to the right shows a
bicorne m/1795 (seen from the
front) with agraffe, pompon and
tall plume. Army Museum.
The Light Dragoons of the Life
Guards, from 1793 the King’s Life Hussar Regiment,
was equipped with a hussar uniform at this point in
time. They wore a hussar felt cap with a plume,
badge and kardong, dolman jacket and fur jacket (a
coat but with fur trimming, usually worn slung over
the left shoulder with the sleeves hanging loose.).
In 1797 the unit was reorganized into dragoons again
by the name King’s Light Life Dragoon Regiment, and
thereby changed to the former dragoon uniform; felt
cap (as above), coat, kollett jacket, buckskin trousers.
The coat was white with blue facing and white braids.
Uniform m/1795
There was a new regulation issued in 1795
concerning the cavalry uniform, but it also included
the dragoon uniform. The new coat was similar to the
one used by the artillery. The dragoon coat had no
facing though.
The cavalry trousers (breeches) were made of
shammy buckskin. The dragoon trousers on the
other hand reached down to the ankles. The
cavalrymen used top-boots while the dragoons wore
high boots. The headgear was bicornes; i.e. flattened
tricornes. Two scarves were used; one black and one
white. the cavalrymen were equipped with
broadcloth belts while the dragoons used sashes.
Breastplates and buff coats was at this time only
used by the Life Regiment Brigade’s Cuirassiers.
Many details in the m/1795 uniform were similar to
the previous uniforms of 1777 and 1781.
There were many regulations issued regarding
uniforms in the 1790s and some of them were never
realized. The 1795 regulation was only introduced in
a few regiments.
Vargeringen - Reserve Soldiers
During the Great Northern War (1700 - 1721) a large
number of reserve soldiers (replacement soldiers)
raised within the units established by the Allotment
System. This system was called vargering and the
replacement soldiers were called vargeringssoldater
in Swedish. These soldiers were stand-by soldiers on
call ready to replace fallen soldiers.
During the Swedish/Russian War 1788 - 1790 the
vargering soldiers were raised again and these
soldiers were equipped with a different uniform than
the rest of the army. The uniform consisted of
trousers, vest, sweater and coat.
Summary of the 1790s
The 1790s regulations can be summarized into two
words; confusion and contradiction. Before there was
time to introduce a new uniform, there were even
newer regulations issued. So, some uniforms were
never introduced, and some uniforms were only
introduced in a few regiments before there were a
new regulation stating otherwise. This was especially
true for the cavalry.